Hair Styling Tools

When it comes to choosing a flat iron for African-American or other ethnic hair types, consideration always needs to be made with respect to the texture of the hair as well as the thickness and degree of curl the hair has.  If the degree of curl is such that it is a loose curl or loose coil, you may be able to get by with just using large rollers rather than having to use a hair straightener.  If your hair is thick and has a tighter curl or coil to it, the following information will be extremely helpful in selecting the best, but more importantly, the right type of flat iron for your hair.  And, it is important to note that there is more to achieving straight hair than just plugging in the flat iron and using it.  Applying the right haircare products is essential to keeping your hair moisturized and protected from any drying out that could occur during the straightening process.

1. Shampoo and deep condition your hair.  The added moisture from the conditioning will help protect your hair from drying out as you straighten it.
2. Use a leave-in conditioner and then spray a good heat protectant on your hair.
3. Using a wide tooth comb, comb through the hair, starting at the last couple of inches of your hair and working upward so as to not to break off or pull out hair unnecessarily.  You will also be evenly distributing the haircare products you have already applied.
4. Make sure your hair is towel dried extremely well and then section your hair for ease in drying.
5. Use a medium setting on your dryer and use a large barrel styling brush to stretch out your hair as you are drying.

For the above haircare products, I recommend Potions International, they have a wonderful ”Super Moist” Shampoo, a deep conditioner called “Power Construct”, a leave-in conditioner by the name of ”Rinse-Free Hair Moisturizer”, and for the spray-in heat protectant, “Super Argan Spray-In” is awesome.

So, what type of flat iron is going to work best on black hair?  As with any type of coarse, thick, or curly hair, we have already established that this type of hair has tendancies toward being dryer than most.  At a minimum, the use of a ceramic plate with the lowest temperature possible is strongly recommended.  Experimenting with the temperature control to see what works best for your particular type hair is the name of the game, with whatever flat iron you choose to use.  Tourmaline and titanium flat irons will add natural shine to your hair so this too is an excellent choice for a flat iron.  One problem that many African Americans have with the straightening process is the ability to get the straightener close enough to the roots of the hair without burning the scalp or skin.  I have found one that is perfect for this.  The Le Angelique CareTin Titanium straightener is aerodynamically modeled with a curved end that allows you to get extremely close to the scalp to not only straighten, but curl the hair.  The modern mirror titanium plates generate nano negative ions, which work to seal in the hair’s moisture, leaving your hair silky and frizz free. 

Whatever hair straightener you select, it is advisable that after you have completed the straightening process, apply a small amount of serum to your fingertips and dab gently on the hair with more focus on the ends.  This serum will add shine, refresh any dry ends and seal the cuticle.  This product is Potion International’s Super Serum, which is the companion hair product to the previously mentioned Super-Argan Spray-In.

Do you know if you have a round shaped face?  If you are having trouble determining this, a simple rule of thumb is that if the length and width of your face are almost the same dimensions, then you have a round face.  Another way to validate this is if you don’t have strong cheekbones, your cheeks are full (chubby cheeks), you have a rounded chin, and lastly your neck appears to be short.

So, if your face is round,  first and foremost you want to wear a hairstyle that diminishes the fullness of your face and make your face appear as if it is slimmer.  If you want to go short, you need volume at the top of your head either via layering or if you have bangs by increasing their height.  When going short, the best length is above the chin or a few inches below, but above the shoulders.  If you want to go really short, consider a pixie haircut.  Also, if you part your hair, be sure to do it off to the side as this will also help in lessening the roundness of your face.

What if you have long hair?  You are already off to a good start.  Keep in mind that a center part will accentuate the length of your face.  If you have a layered look be sure that the layers fall in long lines along the sides of your face.  If you don’t already have layers, consider asking your stylist to layer your hair with longer layers until the layers pass below your chin.

HAIRSTYLE DO’S FOR ROUND FACES

1. Do wear a side part and if you have bangs make sure they are wispy and layered.
2. If your hair is long enough, do wear it in an updo or pulled back as shown above in the picture of Cameron Diaz. The long side-swept wavy bangs can be achieved by using a large barrel curling iron if you don’t already have some wave to your hair.
3. If your hair is fine and straight, do consider wearing a long bob that you can either use a flat iron on or a curling iron for a semi-curled look as shown below in the picture of Tori Spelling.
4. Do wear hair styles that keep the sides of your hair short or closer to the face. 

 HAIRSTYLE DON’TS FOR ROUND FACES  

1. Do not wear your hair in a short bob style as this style only ends up drawing attention to the cheeks.
2. Wearing curls next to your cheeks is also a no-n0 because the curls will make your face look fuller.
3. Stay away from blunt ends near your cheeks as they will widen the look of your cheekbones.
4. Don’t wear heavy, blung bangs as they will add volume to your facial appearance.

Using the right haircare products on a man’s hair can be equally as important as it is for a woman.  Obviously, a man’s hair is no different than a woman’s, and thus, the same problems that women experience with their hair can be equally as challenging to men.

Mens hairstyles and hair lengths ranging from the very short to shoulder length hair and longer can require even more attention than that of their counterpart simply because if the hairstyle is a neatly trimmed shorter cut, a trip to the barber or stylist may be more frequent.  In fact, it is recommended that no more than three weeks should lapse between trims.  If the hairstyle is a little longer, it’s always a good idea to check with the stylist/barber to see if they offer maintenance trims which can be considerably less than a full on haircut.  And, if men use a stylist on a regular basis it is not uncommon for the stylist to offer a free neck shave and quick trim around the ears.

Hairstyles for men are just as trendy now as women’s.  In fact, for certain styles it is not unusual for a man to keep on hand a flat iron for straightening their hair before applying gel.  And, naturally their hair styling tools are going to include a hair dryer.  However, regardless of what the style our men are sporting, the majority of the time it still boils down to whatever takes him the least amount of time to get ready (including the hair) and out the door.  In order to achieve this it is even more important that the right hair styling tools and haircare products are being used for healthy and great looking hair.

For a man’s hair health and to have the ability to complete the style, product should be used every day, regardless of the style.  To eliminate frizz, make sure a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner are being used.  Even a serum for the hair that will help eliminate the frizz and add some shine is perfectly fine as some styles just demand a shine.  The right hair brush is equally as important.  Using boar bristle brushes is an excellent choice as the boar helps to bring out the natural oils of the scalp and this too aids in keeping the scalp and hair healthy.  If you have curly hair, a wide toothed-comb works best, and, if you want to pik out some of those curls, you can use metal or plastic tines.  Lastly, when it comes to the hair dryer, make sure it’s ionic so that all of the technology that has gone into it can be enjoyed and applied to that manly head of hair.

How often do we assume that the use of  hot rollers is simply and solely for curling our hair?  Well, stylists no longer are calling these hair styling tools “curlers,”  for the simple fact that there are actually a variety of styles that can be achieved by using these  heated rollers.

HOW TO SMOOTH NATURAL CURLS:

 Attach a diffuser to your hair dryer and blow dry your hair. 

 Take hot rollers the size of your own curls (even larger may be better) and set your hair.

 Remove the rollers and run your fingers through your hair, or,  if you have a paddle hair brush stroke it through to achieve a softer look.  The result will be a headful of free flowing, smooth and shiny hair.

HOW TO BOOST VOLUME:

A)  VOLUME AT THE CROWN ONLY:

1. Divide up the sections of hair at the crown of your head.
2. Wrap each section of hair around a large or jumbo size hot roller and clip in place.  Continue whatever else is necessary to get ready to leave.       
3. At the point you are ready to leave remove the rollers and lightly brush through.  If you still want additional volume, take a teasing brush and ever so slightly give a few of these strands a tease and cover with the balance of the rolled hair strands.

B)  GETTING A LIFT FROM THE ROOTS

1. Apply some mousse to your hair before blow-drying. 
2. Divide your hair into sections that are the same width as that of the hot rollers that you will be using.  If you have long hair select large hot rollers for use and if your hair is chin-length or shorter, select medium size rollers.
3. Take each section of your hair and lightly tease it from the roots.
4. Take each section of hair and place the roller about two inches from the roots and not at the ends.  Roll the hair upward toward your scalp, leaving the length loosly hanging.
5. Once the rollers have cooled and you have done everything else short of leaving, remove the rollers and smooth over the teased hair.  The result is additional lift with a long-lasting fullness.

Tips courtesy of hairstylist Nathaniel Hawkins.

Regardless of what type flat iron you have in your hair styling tool arsenal, it is always important to take the time to consider the  following steps and tips in caring for and maintaining your flat iron.  After all, flat irons were designed to aid you in creating a flattering and stylish look that you can be proud to wear.

1.  To achieve certain styles, it becomes necessary to use haircare products in your hair, before and after using your flat iron.  Thus, it goes without saying that whatever is on your hair is going to end up baking on your iron.  The end result is that after multiple uses and no cleaning of the iron, there is this sticky build-up of gel or whatever else you have used.  If you don’t clean the iron on a regular basis you will start to experience difficulty in the straightening process because your hair is going to start sticking to the residue and this causes stress to the hair in the way of snags, breakage, and split ends.  SOLUTION: Purchase a professional iron cleaner (be sure to follow specific instructions on the label) or wipe with a soft damp cloth.  AND, always clean your iron after it has cooled down.

2.  How you store you hair straightener can make a big difference in its durability.  If you are wrapping the cord around the straightener you are causing stress to the cord, resulting in a loose connection.  SOLUTION: Coil the cord in a loose fashion with some type of twist tie or rubber band.  When putting the iron away, make sure that the cord is laying next to the iron and free of any clutter that might be in the same area so as to avoid other items resting on top of it.

3.  As we all know, flat irons heat up and maintain that heat even right after you have turned it off.  This leads to a couple of problems that can occur.  The first is that if you are not laying the iron on a heatproof mat or bag, you risk the chance of the iron burning or damaging the surface where it is cooling down.  SOLUTION: First be sure to unplug the iron.  While the iron is cooling down, place it on a heat proof mat or bag.  Many of these are designed for storage and travel purposes so it can be a bonus to have one.

4.  Lastly, over time, the handles of your flat iron may start to loosen up.  It could be a simple fix of merely tightening the loose screws or nuts that hold it together.  SOLUTION:  My recommendation is that you only do this if you can visibly see where the screws are and have the right tools for tightening.  If you are the least bit leery of what to tighten, seek help from a professional.  The first person to check with is your hair stylist.  Stylists are using tools day in and day out and are extremely knowledgable in this area.  If not your stylist, contact the manufacturer for advice.

Photo Courtesy of Good Housekeeping

Having bangs can have its plus and minuses.  On the one hand it can shave a few years off your looks merely by the fact that they cover up wrinkles, but on the other hand, when they start to get too long, they can be a hassle.  Knowing that there are some easy options to either change up the look of your bangs or what to do to make them look more shapely, can relieve some of the stresses that bangs can sometimes present.  Here are just a few suggestions:

1)  If you are looking for a dramatic change, think about flattening the look of the bangs and give them a matte finish.  All you need to do is straighten your bangs with your flat iron (this works best on blunt cut bangs).  Spray your bangs with some dry shampoo, which removes the shine that the straightening brings on.

2)  For longer bangs, wash and condition your hair, and then towel-dry lightly to avoid frizz.  Take a dab of styling cream and blow dry with a large barrel styling brush to reduce any wave or curl in the bangs.  Let the bangs hang at an angle towards the ear.  If you want the matte finish, spritz with dry shampoo, which will also create a little extra volume.

3)  If you have a bob cut with bangs, take damp hair  and make a deep side part using a comb.  Blow dry your hair using a medium barrel brush to achieve a smooth finish.  Take larger sections of your hair and straighten with a flat iron to get that polished look.  Apply a spritz of shine spray and you are done.

Photo Courtesy of Good Housekeeping

4)  If you have layered hair, shampoo with a color boosting shampoo to bring out any highlights you may have.  Apply anti-frizz cream or serum from the roots of your hair to the tips.  Blow dry the roots and the bangs with a medium barrel brush.  Leave the ends of your bangs damp and roughly dry them for a more textured look.

Le Angelique Titan Digital Flat Iron

Regardless of what type flat iron you are using on your hair, it really boils down to making sure you are not exceeding temperatures that can be damaging to your hair.  I have found it is an advantage to be using flat irons that have a temperature dial or a digital read-out, rather than just an on/off switch.  Obviously with just an on/off switch you don’t have any idea how hot your iron is getting and if it appears to be too hot, the best you can do is turn it off.  If your straightener comes with  low, medium, and high heat settings this will at least give you an opportunity to select one of these settings that is best for your hair.

So what is the best temperature setting on your flat iron for your particular type of hair?  It is best determined by the texture of your hair.  In simple terms, if your hair is thin or fine, bleached or damaged, it really doesn’t matter what length it is.  Use the lowest setting.  If your hair is normal to medium textured or wavy, set your flat iron at the middle range of temperatures.  Lastly, if you have thick, coarse, or curly hair and it is in relatively good shape then go ahead and use the higher settings.  If it is damaged, taper back down to the mid range temperatures.

It seems all we ever want to do is eliminate the frizz when it comes to styling our hair.  While haircare products are important, using the right hair styling tool is equally as important coupled with the right cut and hair styling process.

If you don’t already have your thick hair cut in layers, you may want to consider doing so as this will reduce the bulkiness of your hair.  Beware of stylists that want to use a razor as this will definitely cause some ragged ends. Keeping your hair hydrated with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner will weigh your hair down and thus reduce the puffiness.  Make sure you use an anti-frizz serum (PI Super Serum) before you dry your hair as this will help seal the cuticle.

After blow drying your hair, take a ceramic plate flat iron and straighten two-inch sections at a time.  If you want a slight curl to your style, dry 90% of your hair.  Next part your hair down the middle from the crown to nape.  Mist your hair with some setting spray and twist each side of your parted hair into a low, loose bun.  Attach a  hair diffuser to your hair dryer and finish off drying your hair.  After ten minutes uncoil the buns and give your hair a run through with your fingers and you are done.

It used to be that combs actually made out of bone were a well sought after commodity.  But because they are now considered “illegal”, handmade combs are being made out of a 100%  organic resin by the name of phenolic resin laminate. 

Why use a “bone” comb?  The main reason is because the comb is durable and made to withstand high heat.  This means that you can use the comb for styling with heat such as when you using your hair dryer or hair straightener.  It also can be used with hair coloring products.    Other benefits include:

1. No ripping out or snagging of strands of hair
2. Detangles both wet and dry hair easily
3. Creates shine by spreading scalp’s natural oils through the hair shaft
4. Will not create static or frizz
5. Removes flakes and scaling on the scalp

An outstanding manufacturer of this smooth resin comb is NuBone.  The NuBone comb is available in different sizes and designs to handle a variety of styling options.  Some of these varieties include: cutting combs, weaving  (metal tail sectioning) combs, fine-tooth combs, detangler combs, and rake tail and detangler combs.  What makes the NuBone comb special is that it is hand cut, sawed and polished, and most especially will last for years.  Due to their high heat resistance, these combs are ideal for use popular hair straightening techniques:  Brazilian Keratin Hair Straightening, Japanese Straightening, and Traditional Flat Ironing.  Some stylists have literally replaced some of their styling brushes with the NuBone comb because they can use the wide-tooth comb for building body, the medium-tooth comb for general styling, and the fine-tooth comb for smoothing and finishing the style.

Finally, the care of this unique handcrafted hair styling tool is simple.  Wash with a mild detergent once a week and if necessary, use a soft-bristled toothbrush to remove any hair product that may have built up between the tines of the comb.  Just rinse the comb, dry with a towel, and your comb is once again ready for use. 

It doesn’t have to be  just the Holidays when you are scrambling around for gift ideas, but since it is that time of year, and because teens can sometimes be more difficult to please, how about appealing to their hair styling needs?  And, it isn’t just the girls that use the straighteners.  I’ve seen many a guy shopping for the mini as they use it to straighten their hair and then apply the gel to keep it standing up.  A mini works great for us girls for those quick touch-ups wherever we might be.  The really nice thing about a mini is that they can  fit easily in a purse, a gym bag, an overnight bag, or even a pocket.

Mini flat irons are manufactured by several leading hair appliance companies such as BaByliss PRO, Conair, CROC,  and Le Angelique to name a few.  You can find them in black, silver, animal prints, pastels, and other outrageous colors and designs.  Most of the mini’s come in a 1/2″ wide plate, but BaByliss PRO offers a mini model with a 1″ plate.  This is especially cool for someone who is traveling and needs the wider plate but doesn’t want to take their full size hair straightener with them.   The best thing about a mini straightener is that they are much lower in price than your full size models and can be much easier on the budget.